I've been scoring fun waves ever since typhoon 12 came through and moved some sand. Today I decided to get on my bike and ride the beach path down to Maruki with my short board. There were lots of fun looking peaks but they were pretty shifty so I ended up riding back and opting for a fun right hander in front of Hokuto's place. I got barreled, I did some great snaps and I even landed my first air!!!! Even though it was only about 2cm...hahaha Just goes to show that it's never too late to teach an old dog new tricks.
But then I had to pay my dues.....
A nice right lined up and I took off and wanted to smash it. It sucked up and gave me a nice steep bowley section to do a frontside snap and my back tweaked mid rotation. That was me for the day and I had to limp back up the beach and ride my bike back gingerly, tail between my legs, to my place.
It's starting to get sore and stiff and work is going to suck today!