Thursday, August 6, 2009


Went down on my bike to check the surf and word musta got out because every man and his dog was there. Decided to grab my board and paddle out at Kakou just to get wet. I had seen the odd set wave come thru but they were few and far between. With only Shu, his wife Yuri and a couple of others out it was super relaxed and then ..... these lefts just started reeling!!! My session was super fun!
I have got to clock up my water time this week before the hectic chaos of Obon holiday begins next week, where it might be safer to steer clear of the main beaches.


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